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The R132/2 is designed to give you a great handling tough product at a reasonable price. The kit may be easily built without a chassis jig.
You will need a roll of good quality solder (JK Silver soft solder or similar) and a bottle of acid flux (Stay Clean or Lucky Bobs is good).
1) If you have a polisher/linisher. The simplest method is to polish/linish the chassis prior to separating the components by spraying one side of the entire chassis with spray mount and mounting on a flat piece of MDF. Polish the exposed side, remove from the board, remove spray mount from the underside with lighter fuel and then spray the other side of chassis, mount on MDF board and polish this. Remove the chassis from the board and clean adhesive off with lighter fuel. You now have a polished chassis.
2) Identify all the components from the drawing below and separate them from the main chassis using a Dremmel.
3) Remove any laser burn from the edges of the components to be soldered using a diamond file or dremmel.
4) It is an idea to polish the side of the centre section rails using fine Wet & Dry paper. This will make the chassis flex better and also enhance the strength of the finished item.
5) Ensure the chassis is the right way up! And then select your choice of pillar blocks and solder to centre section, along with the pillar block brace.
6) Solder Pin Tube mounts to side pans.
7) Using 3/32” od. Brass tube and 0.062” piano wire fabricate the centre pivot, Solder pivot tube into Centre section. Bend the 0.062” piano wire pivot to fit and then insert into pivot tube and solder solid to angled slot in Motor box.
8) Solder guide plate filler to centre section followed by the guide plate, ensure good joints and minimum solder filling in regard to height. Locate Filler according to choice to obtain “drop arm movement or not. (for no drop arm locate filler over front “T” bar but only solder to centre section). If you wish to enhance Guide “side shuffle” movement, you may remove a little material from the inside faces of the “T” bar side rails to increase clearance between this and the centre section. Also increase width of Guide stop slot in the front “I” beam to suit.
9) Trial fit front “I” Beam to ensure correct fit across guide plate (with “I” beam in place you should have 0.002” – 0.003” clearance between guide plate and “I” beam, guide upstop + “side shuffle“ to compliment centre section rail clearance. Solder “I” beam into place across front T bar.
10) Solder Rear “I” beam into place ensuring clearance for flex in centre section chassis rails.
11) Align side pans with outside edge of front and rear T bars and solder in the piano wire upstop bars, front & rear. (use 0.047” for front & 0.032” for rear bars.) (** see note at bottom of page)
12) Solder front wheel pillar blocks into side pans and mount front wheels using 0.062“ piano wire. It may be necessary to trim front wheel bosses to fit correctly.
13) Solder pin tubes into Pin Tube Mounts.
14) Fabricate pan tie from 0.025” piano wire and solder across pans.
15) Scrub chassis with proprietary kitchen cleaner and re-polish as necessary. Then fit rear bearings, axle, gear, motor, guide flag etc.
16) Ensure a 0.002“– 0.005” clearance between the tech block and outside edges of front T bar when set up with braids of your choice.
18) Pan movement may be tweeked by reducing or increasing upstop bar thickness /diameter.
GO RACING - ENJOY!
Note;- In the unlikely event of component breakage in racing, All parts for this chassis are available as spares.
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