The Viper TP is the newest evolution of the Viper range of chassis from AB. Intended as a simple to build but very strong and good handling G12 Eurosport chassis, it is also possible to use this chassis as a budget strap motor chassis as well.
The handling and flex of the chassis may be altered by changing the thickness of the Tripod rails.

So simple to build, just follow these notes and you will be ready to hit the track in under an hour.

1) Trim off all components marked on the photo opposite. DO NOT SEPARATE THE PANS FROM THE FRONT TEE BAR OR CENTRE SECTION!
2) You should now have a section that looks like the photo below. Cut your 0.047” piano wire main rails (ensure they are long enough to be a good, full length fit into receptors front and back). Solder in position

3) Once the Tripod Rails are soldered into position, solder the guide plate to the centre section, followed by the Front I Bar. Cut a further piece of 0.047” wire and solder down the centre of the centre section from the motor box to the guide plate.
4) Cut the pans free from the front and rear T bars, ensure the guide always returns to a central position and has free movement within the confines of the Guide plate stop in the I Bar, and you have a perfectly set up centre section!

5) Make your choice of pillar block height and solder pillar blocks and motor brace into the motor box.
6) Solder in the Rear upstops.
7) While the pans are unattached, solder in the pin tube mounts. Ensure you have equal movement for the pans front to back both sides (around 2 - 2.3mm is good).
Put a straight edge between the front and rear T bars and use this to locate the pans parallel to the edges of the chassis. Solder in the Front Pan wires (use 0.055 wire) and ensure that the wire locates (slides) against the inside edge of the upstop wire slot, so when finished the pan cannot “move inwards”.
8) Solder the Rear Pan Wires to the pans (use 0.032” wire).
Ensure pans move freely through the upstops.
9) Bend and solder on the bite bar between the pans (use 0.015” wire).
10) Clean up your completed chassis, toss in some bearings, a motor, some leadwires and a full depth Slick 7 guide and it’s time to be amazed!

Tweeks;-

1) You will notice when you build this chassis with 0.047” rails that it has flex such that the guide plate will automatically find its ride height at the top of the Guide plate upstop on the I Bar. At rest on the track this is were the guide plate should be;- at the highest point in the upstop, if it sets up lower, add guide spaces under the guide plate. So, essentially your chassis has “drop arm movement. This is especially great one tracks with wildly divergent braid recesses (It happens!).

On faster, banked tracks, you may wish to stiffen the chassis up some by going to a thicker rail size (0.055” or 0.062”( if you do this, precut the rails and “shave the ends” where they fit into the receptors, so when you go back to using the thinner rail, it won’t flop around in it’s location.

The pans, as the chassis comes, are designed for racing with JK style LMP bodies. Those racers running with higher downforce bodies - BPA Lolas, Bentleys and Higher should contemplate removing the pan sections at the rear (@ in top 2nd left photo) this will make the car tighter in the turns. For ultra high downforce shells think about removing the front inserts (b in the top 2nd left photo).