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Congratulations on purchasing one of the strongest and easiest to assemble Open G12 chassis ever developed.
Designed with the BSCRA OG12 and EEC regulations in mind, the SCORPION is the result of much track testing and improvement both in Enduro and sprint racing on a variety of tracks to give you what we hope is THE BEST Open G12 Chassis on the market today.
Construction;-
The kit is designed to be built without the use of a jig.
Should you wish to polish your chassis prior to assembly, clean the entire kit blank with lighter fuel, spray one side with Spray Mount aerosol glue and mount on a piece of MDF or chipboard. Polish the entire kit blank. When you have finished remove the kit blank carefully from the mdf board, spray mount the polished side of the chassis to the mdf board and polish this surface. Remove the kit blank, clean both surfaces with lighter fuel and trim the components from the kit blank using a Dremel.
Carefully clean all interlocking edges of components with a dremel disk or carbide burr to remove any laser burn.
Always use a good quality acid flux (Stay-Clean or Lucky Bob's) and a good quality high Silver soft solder (JK or similar).
Start by soldering in the center pivot tube and 16g piano wire hinge. During testing it has been found beneficial to solder the 16g pivot solid into the rear tube and allow to float in the longer front tube. The pivot slot is slightly undersize, this is so you can chamfer the edges of the slot to ensure a perfect fit for the tube.
Install the front upstop and solder into position. Note;- the inside wire bar has a bend in front of the upstop. This helps prevent damage to the rear upstop bracket in the event of accidents. Use 18g wire for both bars. Use Slick7 or similar pins to mount front wheels and bend as per photograph. Use Sonic or similar ferrules to locate wheels on pins. this arrangement is better than using a spring steel wheel mounts as they just bend in accidents and don't snap and fall off on the track.
Solder the rear upstop into position and again, use 18g wire for the pan bar. Note also the pin tube mounts. Solder these to the chassis and solder in pin tubes. Cut pin tubes to the width of the chassis.
Use 0.025 wire for the cross pan tie. This may be soldered as shown or reversed and bent over the center pivot. Try both options as this is a handling tweak. Ensure that the pan tie is soldered to give maximum pan width. On some tracks it can improve handling by tacking the cross pan tie to the centre section pivot tube in a way which causes a “spring bias” of the pans towards the rear.
The pans have option punch outs to lighten the chassis. Removing these can be a benefit on fast tracks. If you wish to remove these, do this carefully with a dremell and keep them should you wish to replace them at a later date.
Use an Earring back to locate lead wire on the center section. Solder this just behind the guide flag tongue.
The Guide flag tongue has two location holes which may be sleeved with brass tube or piano wire to give addition mechanical strength and aid location.
The guide flag tongue has been set up to use a Koford or Cahoza Cut down guide flag. Generally on tracks with recessed braid the car will run great without skids. Round the front edges of the T bar to aid smooth running and minimise track damage. It may be necessary to skid the outside front of the T bar when racing on copper tape or flush braid tracks. Alternatively, cut a thin brass shim to solder under guide flag tongue. It may also be an idea to slightly chamfer the outside edges of the Rear T bars as this will help handling when running very low ground clearances.
This chassis will run very well on BIR or Alpha Piranha type rubbers on spray glue tracks. When the grip is high a “Supernatural” type compound may be better. If the car is “Tippy” or overgripping at the rear under higher grip conditions, either increase the outside radius on the rear tyres and/or add a small amount of lead to the Rear “T” Bars.
All components in this kit have been designed for maximum strength, however it is still possible in a VERY BAD smack to break small components. Spare Pillar blocks, Rear and Front Upstops are available from AB Slotsport.
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