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The TWP “Eurotoy” chassis is the modern version of the original Eurotoy chassis and at £9.95 is possibly the cheapest proddy chassis on the market. It offers a very lightweight chassis ideal for 1/32 sports car racing, especially using falcon type motors. The Chassis is a two part design in Nickel plate and for the most part, the pressings are accurate. The one key problem with all these types of chassis is Rear End Strength and this can easily be addressed with a piece of 16G piano wire bent as shown and soldered to the rear of the chassis centre section. Prior to soldering this brace, you should take the two chassis parts apart and ensure they are flat and that Vertical surfaces such as Pillar bocks and the motor bracket are indeed vertical and not slightly bent. When soldering the brace to the rear end, in addition to soldering to the bottom of the chassis, flow solder into the joint between the brace and the pillar block upright. This “fillet” will reinforce the pillar block itself.

When you remove the chassis from it’s pack you will notice that the pans are screwed tight to the centre section with the screws trimmed flush to the bottom of the chassis. This works fine on long flowing tracks, however, for scale tracks you need movement between the pans and centre section. To achieve this movement, remove existing screws, check for any burrs on the mating surfaces of the pressings and remove if necessary, then find 2 longer replacement screws (with matching flat washers). Refit the pan section with the longer screws and adjust these so the pans float freely, but without “slop”.

On the underside, flow solder neatly around the new screws to lock them in place and then trim them flush to the chassis as shown.
Use 0.032” piano wire for the front axle and fit front wheels with retainers as shown.
This chassis sets up just fine for most tracks with a standard depth guide flag. Ensure Guide tongue is straight and flat prior to fitting guide.

Moving to the rear end;- Solder in the pin tubes then fit the oilite bearings, align and solder in place, ensuring the axle is parallel to the bottom of the chassis. You will notice that the gear runs “inboard” the chassis. Sliding axle in from the Right (as per picture below), fit a polymer spacer to the inside of the right hand pillar block (this acts as a “trust” washer for the gear), fit gear, slide axle through left hand Pillar block. Space both sides to legal width and fit wheels. (ensure axle spins smoothly.) Solder pinion on the motor shaft, set up the gear mesh and solder in place across the top of the motor bracket and also the underside of the motor at the opposite end, across the “vent Hole” in the chassis as shown.

It’s around this time when the car is almost finished that you realise that the pan movement is a “Bit Wild” in the up and down department. This is easily adjusted by bending the pan Upstops inwards as shown in the photo to the right.
So now all you have to do is fit the lead wires and you are ready to rock!

This build has the emphasis on light weight. The lighter the chassis the faster it will be and the quicker it will stop! Gearing on this build was 11/37 but racers may find they need to step down to a 10 t pinion for very short or tight tracks.
Tyres wise - unless the track is totally devoid of grip, run Supernatural tyres. These will give good grip without holding the car back on the main straights and prevent “fronting” in the corners.

Set the car up on the track so the front of the chassis is approx 2-5 thou from the track surface. Adjust using guide spacers. As the car is very light, it will run far better on soft braids than the hard 408 variety.
On bumpy tracks or those with high grip it may be necessary to use some lead ballast on the pans. If this is the case GO EASY - the more lead you use, the slower the car will be and the harder it will be to stop.
Start by adding lead to the pans under the front pin mount. Also ensure that the tyres you use are “Round” to ensure smoothest possible running.
ENJOY YOUR RACING!