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The kit comes nickel plated and minimal effort is required to assemble.
Using a Dremmel with a cut off disc installed, seperate the components from the tree and trim any rough edges left behind on components after this procedure.
Use a good quality solder to assemble the chassis (best is JK “Silver” solder) and a good quality acid flux such as Stay Clean etc.
First, solder the guide tab and leadwire holder to the centre section, followed by the front pillar blocks. Moving up the chassis solder the pin mount pillars in place. Assemble the motor bracket, rear pillar blocks and rear pillar block support and solder these in place as a “set”.
Solder pin tubes into the pin tube mounts.
Cut the chassis where indicated by the blue lines and using 2 short peices of 0.055” wire, solder the rear downstops in position

Solder in front and rear oilite bearings, ensuring they are alligned with a 3/32” axle.

The front axle may either be left to rotate, with the front wheels spaced with brass spacer tubes or it may be fixed and have independent rotating front wheels as per the photograph. The benefit of this arrangement is that if the front axle takes a knock and gets slightly bent, it will not rotate and thrown the car off line in the turns. Also independent front wheels make the car work better.

The simplest method of doing the front end is as follows;-

Using either 3/32” piano wire or An Extra Long JK 3/32” hard axle, cut the axle to the maximum permitted width (68mm), Solder a machined brass collet (3/32” dia) to one end of the axle, slide on a front wheel and ensure it rotates freely. Slide on a further collet to locate the wheel in place while maintaining free rotation.
Insert the axle ALL the way through the front oilite bearings. Slide a collet (inner) onto the axle, followed by the second wheel (ensure wheel rotates freely) and follow with the second (outer) collet. With your gauge set at the maximum width, move the second wheel to it’s position on the axle and note the required location for the outer collet. Move the wheel down the axle away from the end, ensuring the outer collect does not move from where you have set it. Solder the outer collet and then recheck that width is spot on 68mm when the wheels are spread. Trim excess length from the axle using a dremmel. Move inner collet to the wheel and solder in place, ensure wheel rotates freely. Centre the axle in the oilite bearings and solder axle solid to bearings. Remove screws from front wheels and use these holes to lubricate the wheels.

For most tracks a Cahoza “Cut Down” guide is most suitable. Use a good quality guide nut with 0.005” teflon spacers both sides of the guide plate. Arrange leadwire as shown to achieve best self centering. Use good quality leadwire (TQ as illustrated)

Rear end.
The motor may be fitted either with screws or soldered to the motor bracket. Ensure no movement between the motor bracket and motor.

Gears
Possibly the best gears we have found for this application are Slot-It type gears as used for ugrading Scalextric type cars. These are available in a number of sizes 24,26,28,30T . (illustrated is the NSR 27t gear).
Best Ratios for most tracks is 8:26 - 8-30 but experimentation is all. The gear mesh is self aligning with these gears, so “messing around” with ratios is no problem and due to the fact the motor shaft rides in the gear, this also means there is no need to put spacers on the rear axle, which saves weight and possible friction loss.

Rear Tyres;- Best we have found are JK Polymer hubs fitted with Supernatural rubber, but the choice is yours.

Bodies;- How many F1’s can you choose??!! There is the whole range from Betta or the Great new Grid of F1’s from JK which are designed for this chassis - take you pick.