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The “Devil” chassis is indeed a great “Intro” class to 1/32 Formula One Racing and can be used with almost any motor from an “S” can Mabuchi to a C can motor with Hornet, Wasp, G12 or G15 armatures.
The growing intro class here in the UK seems to be utilising the Falcon motor from JK. This makes for a very drivable car.
This page focuses one building th Devil with a Falcon motor but much of the text will apply to other motor classes.

The Devil is a 2 piece pressed brass unit, held together with a piano wire pivot in front of the front axle. This chassis is also sometimes available as a pressed steel version. Here we look at the best way to build the Devil for Falcon Racing.
The Falcon motor is quite light and has a power output somewhere between a hybrid Mabuchi S and a 16d. Due to the light weight of the motor this gives us the opportunity of building what is in Formula One terms, a fairly light car.

There are 2 ways of doing the front axle on these cars.
1) Using 3/32 diameter piano wire (you will not find a 3/32 axle long enough for full F1 width) and utilising front wheels with a 3/32 bore. (this is the “heavy option”)
2) Using a 16G front axle with a brass tube centre ferrule (as per the picture). This is the lightweight option and how this assembly will proceed.
Initial preparation:-
Remove the piano wire pivot, take chassis apart and pay special attention to ensure both chassis parts are flat. As a rule the main sections are good but pay special attention to the Guide flag plate (which is not usually “parallel” and motor mount bracket, which is more than likely not vertical.

1) Cut a length of 1/16” bore brass tube approx, 1/4” longer than the width between the front axle uprights. Make a small “semi cut” in the centre of this tube (which is where you will solder in the 16g front axle) and then solder the tube centrally into the front axle uprights.
2) Cut a 68mm length of 16G (0.062”) piano wire for the front axle (ensure it is 68mm as this defines the front width of the car), this should slide happily in the axle tube. Do not solder it in yet!
3) Cut a length of 0.032” piano wire (approx 70mm long) and slide through the front pivot and centre the wire in the chassis.
4) Solder a Sonic 0.032” retainer to the outside of the pan section and the 0.032” wire both sides. DO NOT let the solder flow through the joint and lock the centre section!)
Ensure that after this operation the pan & centre section hang in line (hold the centre section and ensure pans do not drop below it - adjust retainers as necessary). You will find if you get this right that there is still a small amount of forward, backward and slightly upward movement in the pans from front to rear.
5) bend the 0.032 wire as per picture to form the Front Axle Brace as shown. Once everything lines up and you ensure you have enough space on the remaining “outside stubs” of the axle to accommodate the front wheels, trim the axle brace ends & wire tie the brace to the front axle, ensure an even spacing both sides and solder wire ties to the axle and also flow solder through the front axle tube centre cutt (operation 1) to locate the front axle.
6) In this example we have used “Betta Pro F1 fronts” for the front wheels. Use Sonic 0.062 retainers to solder these on to the front axle. Ensure both front wheels rotate freely and spin happily with a minimum of side play. Don’t forget, maximum front width is 68mm!

With the soldering iron still hot we are going to move back down the chassis.
7) Using 1/16” O.D. Brass tube solder the pin mount body tubes to the pans as shown. Some favour using a thin piece of brass shim under the tubes to raise them a little from the pan.
8) Ensure the rear axle oilite holes are at the correct height in the chassis and the rear axle runs parallel with the bottom of the chassis. Solder in rear bearings.
9) You will find it is necessary to open out the hole in the motor mount slightly to accommodate the rear bearing of the Falcon motor and get the motor perfectly lined up for the rear axle.
10 It is ESSENTIAL to use a Formula One alignment tool when fitting the motor to ensure good gear mesh. Fit the tool through the rear axle and bearings, slide in the motor shaft and this should set your motor up completely in line. If the motor “looks up” at the front, open the bottom of the motor bracket hole until the motor sits flat. When all is happily in line solder motor to bracket, top and both sides. Be quick when doing this and use a damp cloth to cool motor can fast. The hotter you get the can the more you kill the magnets!
11) Gearing is a matter of choice. On this car we have used 72 pitch SCD F1 gears 10:36. These give a good mesh and are hard wearing. Alternatives would be the New NSR 31t 48 pitch crown and 9t press on pinion or similar.

When using “open Crown Gears” like the SCD, it is an idea to use a “Mesh retainer” like that fitted above. This comprises of the centre of an old plastic gear (with the plastic machined off) and once screwed tight to the axle will maintain the gear mesh in a crash or when you remove or change your wheels (use a polymer spacer between this and the back of the bearing to reduce friction).
To give ideal spacing for the rear axle it is only necessary to fit 1 x 0.015” teflon spacer each side, between the bearings and wheels to achieve your 68mm max width.

Back to the Front end and time to fit the guide and lead wires! Use a full depth guide with a 0.005” Teflon washer each side of the guide plate. This seems to work well for tape or flush braid tracks (add spacers on the underside for recessed braid tracks). Keep the front of the chassis as near to the track as rules permit. Fix lead wires to whatever is your favourite convention although as illustrated works very well.

SET-UP
Remember, lightness is the way to go. The motor is no STRAP!
For preference use “Supernatural tyres” if the track grip allows, these will absorb less of the motors power and allow the rear end the flow a little better. Fish tyres will “nail the rear end” and require you to employ more lead ballast to make the car handle.
Front wheels should “Just” touch and roll - and make sure they DO roll and run free on the axle.

Lastly;- Pick a nice body shell. This is a class which deserves a good looking body. There is a raft of good F1 shells around. Betta have been making them for years, Red Fox have an outstandingly good looking McLaren body and JK have a whole new grid of 1/32 bodies designed specifically for this class of racing which actually look like F1’s so no reason to blow it! ENJOY YOUR RACING!