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The kit comprise of 8 diodes, a 12 position switch and control knob
You will notice that the diodes have one end marked with a “Silver coloured ring” it is important that during assembly, you ensure that these are correctly orientated so the “silver rings” are to the left (or running “anti-clockwise) as per the photo sequence.
1) Start by bending switch contacts as shown and trimming of terminals 10, 11 & 12.

This diode brake kit is suitable for fitting to all types of resistor controllers and will give ;- Full brakes + 8 different positions of reduced braking effect.
Diode braking is far more suitable for low power cars than resistance braking systems due to the very small EMF outputs of low powered motors. Diode braking works by “voltage drop” as opposed to resistance and also works efficiently on higher powered cars.
The switch and diodes are all rated at 1 amp / 20 volts which is more than sufficient for to cope with the Emf output under braking of even high performance slot car motors.
The instructions shown apply to the Red Fox controller, However with a few common sense adaptions this kit may be used with Parma, Professor Motor or any other resistance controllers with space in the handle to accommodate the components. One could also house the components in a small box on the Brake cable between controller and track.

2) Arrange and solder the diodes together in a bundle as shown, ensuring that the “Silver ring” on all diodes run anti-clockwise around the switch as shown in photo below.

When fitting to Professor Motor or Parma controllers ensure you have room within the handle to fit the switch prior to drilling the handle. It is possible to fit the switch in a small plastic box on the Brake wire, between the controller and the track. Cut the brake wire in a convenient position. Ensure when making final connections that the Red wire is connected to the brake wire “Going to the controller” and the Black wire is connected to the Brake wire “Going to the track”.

When testing the brakes use a car you are familiar with and try the various settings. You will find that you have one setting which gives full brakes and 8 other settings with progressively less brakes. If when testing you find you have one setting with full brakes and 8 settings with no brakes at all then you have made the cable connections the wrong way round. Reverse connections and you will find everything works fine, providing you have orientated the diodes on the switch correctly, in one direction.

4) Put handle sections together, mark a spot 22mm fron the top of the moulding as shown and drill a 10mm hole to accomodate the switch shaft. The smaller hole is 3mm and is drilled to accomodate the “lock pin” on the switch body moulding. Easiest way to locate this is to fit switch into bare casings, rotate the lock pin to the attitude shown (approx 45deg. from vertical) and mark before drilling.
5) Clean out drilled holes and trial fit the switch.
6) Using a dremel with a cut off disk or engraver head, or hand file, cut through the Brake track on the hand controller circuit board as shown and drill 2 holes for the wires, cleaning away paint around the holes to facilitate soldering. Only cut through the printed track Not the entire board! (right).
7 ) Pass stripped ends of both wires through holes from the rear of the circuit board and solder to front as shown (right).

Under the nut and washer on the switch you will find an adjustable “Stop” washer. Fit the tongue of the washer into position “9) Fit switch to unit. Assemble controller running the brake wires behind the circuit board so they are neat and tidy. Check trigger operation of controller and ensure a smooth action, adjust as necessary.
Ensure no short circuit between components on the brake switch and the resistor or Full Power terminal. The switch will be found to be a fairly “Tight” fit, but fit it does and once screws and nuts are tightened, no movement will occur.

Trim the switch shaft and fit control knob supplied.